Derma-planing: snog, marry or avoid?

Derma-planing: snog, marry or avoid?

The biggest trend in new 'skin treatments' this year has been without a doubt, the move to women shaving their faces.  Whether it's called Derma-Planing, Derma-Blading, Epi-Blading, or something else, it involves blades on skin to remove hair and skin cells.  

So do we want to marry it, or are we swiping left?  Let's pour some tea...

The treatments...
There are a few different versions of this trend.  The first is an in-clinic service.  This is the one you'll see called Derma-planing, derma-blading or epi-blading.  
The facialist holds a blade at a 90 degree angle to the skin, and shaves back and forth to remove fine facial hair, and the upper epidermis. 
The goal is to have a smoother, more light-reflective skin, free of hair.  It certainly achieves that, but any result is temporary. 
There is also the question of why? would we want to blade away the upper epidermis, whose sole job is to keep the world out & hydration in.  

For the most part, this idea of the upper layer of skin being 'dead' and therefore worthy of nothing but the scrap-heap, is outdated and discarded by modern skin therapists.   Modern skin therapists know that retaining those cells while building a better skin behind them, will yield a longer-term, healthier skin at a lower cost. 

The verdict?  While it may be satisfying to see what comes off, it's unlikely to help your skin long-term.  A hydrated skin sheds it's own old cells efficiently.   For a skin to be hydrated, it must be allowed to keep it's waterproof upper layers. 
Blading them away is a temporary smoothing that works against that goal.  

The at-home version...
You have a fluffy face, congestion and you feel meh.  If you're stuck in lock-down, it's all very well saying 'wait till the spa's open'.  
The reality of Zoom and Tindering makes this a 10 out of 10 'not going to happen'.  You will try something. 

One of the somethings you may try is these cute little packets of razors for facial hair removal.  Brands like Bondi Blades and many others will post them out to you.  These are not going to remove as much as the in-clinic treatment.  They are safe to use as long as you don't try to make them into an 'at-home facial' and you use them infrequently.  

Where you'll run into problems is if you decide to use them often, or you try to get the same type of 'shedding' you've seen in pro-treatment videos. 
Facialists touch thousands of faces & they can assess, see, feel when they are going too deep.  There's a risk you will over-exfoliate too often, leaving skin more prone to UV damage, infection and inflammation that can lead to pigmentation. 

The verdict?
If you have peach fuzz and you just can't bear it, at-home blades are a short-term fix that won't hurt your skin if you keep it infrequent & you let your facialist know so she can customise your skincare routine accordingly.  Removing skin cells always matters and should be considered a form of exfoliation, while never actually trying to use it as exfoliation - ever!  

Older Post